Wine Code Breaker #322

2017 Gemtree Uncut Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia

Obi-Wan Kenobi known, as old Ben, watched over the young Luke Skywalker and then guided him in the use of the Force. As old Ben explained to the young Luke, “the Force is what gives a Jedi his power. It’s an energy field created by all living things. It surrounds us and penetrates us. It binds the galaxy together.” What is not well know is that old Ben guided Luke in the use of the Force over bottles of McLaren Vale Shiraz. For us, we are fortunate that one of old Ben’s lessons as survived a transit from a galaxy far far away.

Luke, use the Force and feel the label for it is the 2017 Gemtree Uncut Shiraz from McLaren Vale in South Australia. Remember, only a Sith deals in absolutes Luke, for the colour is a deep purple with reds and blacks. The truth is often what you make of it, so be careful to note that this has salty plums and spices. The aromas are gloriously delightful with a sprinkling of oak. The palate will remind you of who is the more foolish; the fool or the fool who follows him? It soars and sings with plums, dark fruits with the Force revealing a ripeness and juiciness that is balanced beyond its years. Skill is the child of patience as you note touches of chocolate, mocha and spices. The tannins are velvety and attractively defined by its acidity. Remember…the Force will be with you. Always Luke, and this one too with its long and persistent finish.

May the Force be with you, this coming Stars Wars day. May the fourth it is.

Enjoy!

Rating93 pts
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DrinkNow; 3-10 yrs
Price$23
TastedApr 2020

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Wine Code Breaker #321

2018 Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Syrah, Yarra Valley, Victoria

“Jack and the Bean Stalk“ is a classic English fairy tale that contains a tetrametric poem that we all re-call with ease.  Of course, it is the monosyllabic incantation from the giant:

Fee-fi-fo-fum,
I smell the blood of an Englishman,
Be he alive or be he dead
I’ll grind his bones to make my bread.

In this fable, the giant is the villain and he took giant steps to his demise as the beanstalk came crashing down.  What is not well known is that this giant was quite fond of pairing his bread with a Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Syrah from the Yarra Valley in Victoria.  Not oft quoted is the second verse of his monosyllabic tetrametric warning. 

Fee-fi-fo-fum
I smell the spice and herbs and plum
Earthy edge and savoury tones
I’ll sniff and sip this with your bones.

Of course the 2018 was not available to our villain prior to his demise but it is for us.

Enjoy!

Rating95 pts
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DrinkNow; 10+ yrs
Price$50
TastedApr 2020

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Wine Code Breaker #271

2012 Cirillo 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia

One from the archives of 2018…In looking back through the tasting year of 2018 there has been an apparent bias towards Grenache.  So let’s just call it as it is, the year of Grenache.  The more of these wines you get to see the more you marvel at how they have evolved.  From the fill for fortifieds in the early years to becoming bold alcohol driven table wines to what we are now seeking is an elegant spice driven style.  The ones that you really marvel at are those crafted from old vines.  The oldest are those from the mid 1800s in the Barossa Valley.  These patches of paradise have seen many a season pass as well as surviving phylloxera outbreaks and political tensions seeking to pull vines when there was a glut.  Glut or no glut, these are vines that deserve to be recognised for what they are, a national treasure and preserved for all time.  

The 2012 Cirillo 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache is produced from vines dating back to 1848 from the Barossa Valley region in South Australia.  These are regarding as some of the oldest vines under continuous production and has produced a crimson garnet coloured wine that is evocatively bright and inviting.  The nose is stunningly complex with rose petals, raspberries, liquorice and coffee notes too.  The gloriousness of the nose is more than matched by the palate with its red berries, pomegranates and black jubes.  Chocolate, freshly sliced fennel and zest of lemon adding a twist.  Could that be a dirty martini hidden in amongst this?  Elegant mouthfeel with the tannins softly dancing and waltzing into the distance for a long lingering finish.  Definitely worthy of national treasure status.

Enjoy!

Rating96 pts
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DrinkNow; 3-15 yrs
Price$60
TastedDec 2018

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Wine Code Breaker #320

2019 Duke’s Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling, Porongurup, Western Australia

A sonic boom is heard when an object travels faster than the speed of sound.  It can be similar to a thunderclap to the observer who is generally stationery.  Less appreciated is the fact that a sonic boom is a continuous sound and this has been likened to laying out the carpet.  To hear it though, you too will have to be travelling pretty damn close to the speed of sound. Good Riesling will have piercing citrus flavours; great Riesling will have citrus flavours that will hit you a bit like a sonic boom and if you can hang on long enough, the intensity will shock and astound you.

The 2019 Duke’s Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling is from the Porongurup region in Western Australia.  Is has a colour that is almost colourless; just a hint of green glints with appeal as it is swirled in the glass. The nose is akin to the jet fast approaching with the aromas of citrus blossoms, lemons, limes and grapefruits.  A hint of minerality is there too, more talc than slate.  Upon tasting, the citrus flavours hit your palate like an explosion.  They are as piercing and as impressive as the sound of a sonic boom.  The lightly oily grippy texture and racy acidity paint the vapour trail, leaving a long lingering sense of amazement that you wish you could experience all over again.

Enjoy!

Rating96 pts
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DrinkNow; 10+ yrs
Price$45
TastedMar 2020

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Wine Code Breaker #88

2012 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Western Australia

One from the archives of 2014…Diatomaceous earth is an amazing naturally occurring substance. As an absorbent for moisture, it also has the remarkable ability of sucking into its matrix the foulest of odours, one of which is cats pee. This offending smell can be detected at 50 paces and assails ones nostrils with such a force that no other odour is detectable for days to come. Sauvignon Blancs from both Australia and New Zealand have developed a reputation across most price points for being akin to bottled cats pee. This is a sad thing as good Sauvignon Blanc can be exciting and fresh, a beautiful accompaniment for seafood.

The 2012 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River in Western Australia is fresh and vibrant. The colour is pale golden hay with a tinge of green. Its nose is pure fruits, grapefruit, lime zest and spice of cinnamon, vanilla and anise leap out from the glass. The palate is finely structured with limes, guava and papaya with very pleasing textural length and citrus acidity aided by the older barrel aging. The grape tannins are ample and would handle most fresh seafoods with ease. A delight. And most importantly, no kitty litter required here.

Enjoy!

Rating92 pts
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Drink2-5 yrs
Price$25
TastedFeb 2014
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Wine Code Breaker #319

2017 Patronus The Antler Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia

For some, the Harry Potter craze passed them by and this may have been due to their age or the age of their children.  I, on the other hand, have lived the Harry Potter journey through the books and then the movies.  Perhaps we were mean parents as the movie viewing was not allowed until that book had been read…  My girls discovered they were in the houses of Ravenclaw and Hufflepuff and their patronuses (or patroni?) were an Basset hound, deer hound, and a Siberian cat.  Mine, though, is Barossa Grenache.

The 2017 Patronus The Antler Grenache is from the Barossa Valley in South Australia.  It is a light crimson coloured wine with brightness that appeals.  The nose is lightly perfumed with raspberry and blackberries with some notes of freshly sliced fennel.  Touches of glazed fruits leads to you to think there is a thin slice of fruit cake in the background.  The palate has the fruits and juiciness that appeals right now.  The texture is velvety and delightful and leaps lightly and deftly to foil many a foe. 

Enjoy!

Rating92 pts
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DrinkNow; 1-5 yrs
Price$25
TastedApr 2020

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Wine Code Breaker #142

2012 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia

One from the archives of 2015…Homer Simpson introduced viewers to the world of topology in an episode called “the Wizard of Evergreen Terrace”. This line of mathematics considers a square and a circle to be identical or homeomorphic because a square can be transformed into a circle. Homer followed this rule by demonstrating he could transform a doughnut into sphere, albeit the doughnut had a bite out of it because Homer considered the nibbling or biting of a doughnut as a necessity. Imagine a doughnut without a bite; doh! Thus, these two shapes were proved to be homeomorphic or Homermorphic. Cabernet Sauvignon in its youth can present as a doughnut where the palate has a strong or dominating front and back plates pushing the middle into the background. At first you may seem underwhelmed yet with time, nibbling or biting of the aging process, the palate fills out more completely presenting as a sphere that is wholly satisfying.

The 2012 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon from the Coonawarra district in South Australia is a text book example of this classic grape. Dark garnet with hues of blacks and purples flashing throughout. Being youthful, this wine needs air to show at its best. The nose with swirling presents bunches of blackberries, blueberries and cassis. Minerals, herbs, tobacco and minty notes add depth. The palate is firmly structured with an apparent hole as a doughnut emphasised by the bright dark blackberries at the front and the herbs and tobacco and savoury spicey oak at the rear. The tannins are powdery, akin to talc, and supportive of a long persistent finish. With its pedigree, and the year, it is a wine that will age beautifully over many years.

Truly, a Homermorphic wine.

Enjoy!

Rating93 pts
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DrinkNow; 7-15 yrs
Price$30
TastedMay 2015
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Wine Code Breaker #318

2016 One Block Moonlit Forest Dark Star Syrah, Yarra Valley

Walking through a moonlit forest can be quite a spiritual experience.  The light is dabbled through the leaves onto the forest floor.  As you walk, shadows move slowly beside you like a friend.  Cool climate Shiraz or Syrah can be the same.  Its flavours are dabbled across your palate and the flavours linger like a good friend.  Yarra Valley is producing some wonderfully moonlit wines that we should all be chasing.  

The 2016 One Block Moonlit Forest Dark Star Syrah from the Yarra Valley in Victoria is a dark plum and cherry coloured wine.  The nose is fragrant and dabbles plums and dark berry fruits above the glass as if refracting the light off the forest floor.  The palate has those fruits along with touches of chocolate.  It is a complex velvety textural palate with crunchy acidity and some stalky influences that are just a touch chewy yet lovingly complimentary all at once.  Enjoy a glass of the One Block whilst walking in a moonlit forest and stare at a dark star dreaming of Syrah. 

Enjoy!

Rating94 pts
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DrinkNow; 5-7 yrs
Price$25
TastedDec 2019
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Wine Code Breaker #57

2010 Paradigm Hill L’Ami Sage Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsular, Victoria

One from the archives of 2013…There have been very few winemakers I have met who are not passionate about what they do. It appears to be one of those treasured industries where your sole aim is to give it your best, every single day. They are a group of people who are thought provoking, insightful and above all patient. Great wine comes from carefully managed vineyards and craftsmanship that is respectful of the season they are delivered. The ability to listen to the season requires a patient study of your surroundings and is a skill to be admired above all.

The Paradigm Hill winery is a fine example of keenly crafted wines hailing from the Peninsular. They produce very few wines, but what is produced is of a very high standard. The 2010 L’Ami Sage Pinot Noir for me is their highlight. A superb colour, dark crimson red displaying brightness. The nose of this Pinot Noir leans more towards the masculine side with nuances of earthy, herbal, and cherry fruit with dusty oak and just a faint perfume lift. Over time in the glass the dark herbal edge evolves into something akin to black olives and red forest floor berries. The palate showed that dark herbal edge intermingling cherry and red berry fruits supported by dusty oak influences. All floating effortlessly along strong yet silken tannins delivering an elegant profile and a long broadening finish that did not disappoint. In the end, this wine delivered a sense of peace. More than that, it proffered comfort and guidance. It was patient and thought provoking. I was moved.

Enjoy!

Rating95 pts
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Drink5-10 yrs
Price$40s
TastedApr 2013
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Wine Code Breaker #317

2019 Meadowbank Gamay, Tasmania

Gamay has an infamous record akin to the early colonisation of Australia.  One of the oldest varieties in France, Gamay became an outlaw in 1395 following a decree of the Duke of Burgundy, Philip the Bold.  Philip boldly claimed Gamay was an outlaw, a wine that was foul and harmful to human beings.  He also instructed that all plants were to be destroyed.  This decree saw all convict vines removed and transported to Beaujolais (metaphorically speaking).  It was here that it thrived and now its delights are able to be experienced in other regions of the world including Australia.  

The 2019 Meadowbank Gamay from Tasmania has an incredibly vibrant red cerise colour that is highly appealing.  The nose is highly floral and perfumed with light red berries and cherries. There is a hint of hubbabubba for those that remember it from their youth.  The palate has those cherries and pomegranates twisted around some citrus zest.  The tannins are lively, the acidity is elegant and the finish appeals all the more with a light chilling.  The resounding declaration of the jury is to revoke Gamay’s status as an outlaw.

Enjoy!

Rating94 pts
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DrinkNow; 1-5 yrs
Price$45
TastedMar 2020
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