Wine Code Breaker #405

2022 Tupelo Pinot Gris Riesling Pinot Blanc Gewurtztraminer Stargazer, Tasmania

“Would you like some fruit salad”? “No thanks, I already have some” as I sniff and swirl a glass of wine. Does a wine with four or more varieties count as fruit salad? Blending multiple varieties together is to build on the synergies, ensure the counter points don’t conflict and deliver a wine that is more interesting that its individual parts. The synergies will be flavours, texture and acid. Stuff these up and it will be somewhat akin to the juices left in the bowl after the fruit salad is finished.

The 2022 Tupelo from Stargazer in Tasmania is a blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewurtztraminer grown in the Coal River area. It flashes brightly in a glass with its light green yellow hues. A highly aromatic and appealing nose with citrus, Turkish delight, a little bit of lychee, a nip of peach, a dash of guava and a pinch of spice. These flavours flowing effortless into the palate. It is delightful with a structure that brings you back for more; oily tannins, dancing acidity and flavours lovingly linger. This is my kind of fruit salad.

Enjoy!

Rating: 94 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 12.2%

Drink: Now; 3-5 yrs

Price: $28

Tasted: January 2023

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Wine Code Breaker #404

2022 Longview Macclesfield Grüner Veltliner, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

The recent elevation in grunting from the TV speakers marks the arrival of the tennis season to our shores. Why all this noise? Well, there is scientific evidence that proves the dynamic velocity and isometric force of both serves and forehand strokes increases with grunting. That extra bit of power on the ball may be the difference between a winning passing shot and an easily returned rally shot. Warning, do not be confused when someone with a glass of wine in their hand watching the tennis exclaims with glee “what a grunter!” No one really likes watching grunters, but many love tasting a Grüner Veltliner (aka grunter).

2022 Longview Macclesfield Grüner Veltliner is from the Adelaide Hills in South Australia. A bright pale green and yellow coloured wine that on the nose has a lovely briney note of crushed oyster shells, finger limes, floral rose water and apples; apples more on the Granny Smith side. Green olives adds a savoury component. The palate sings with the lime and apple fruits offset against a grassy herbaceous and savoury notes. The lightly oily tannins counter balance the acidity that delivers a superb passing forehand down the line for a winner. “What a great grunter!”

Enjoy!

Rating: 94 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 12.5%

Drink: Now; 2-5 yrs

Price: $30

Tasted: January 2023

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Wine Code Breaker #403

2019 Windows Estate Basket Pressed Petit Lot Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia

“One Day Like This” by Elbow, an English band, is a song that builds and lingers gloriously. Starting with piano and strings, the lyrics begin with thoughts of a dawning day. Ultimately it is a song that muses about falling in love crescendoing with a chorus that is uplifting, inspiring and reflective. Just one day like this can see you through a year or perhaps even for life. Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon can evoke such thoughts.

The 2019 Windows Estate Basket Pressed Petit Lot Cabernet Sauvignon is from Margaret River in Western Australia. In the glass it is vibrant with hues of reds and blacks that you have you drinking in the morning sun. It’s looking like a beautiful day. The nose has an array of aromas; I can only think it must be love. How could it not be with chocolate eclair like nuances mingling with blackberries, blueberries, fresh crisp snap beans and touches of bay leaves. It’s looking like a beautiful day. The palate left me stumbling over what to say. Holy cow I loved the chocolate and caramel, the dark berries, mocha and herbs. Throw those curtains wide as the powdery tannins and layering of flavours deliver an elegant wine that lingers gloriously. This is a beautiful day.

Enjoy!

Rating: 95 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14%

Drink: Now; 7-10 yrs

Price: $50

Tasted: October 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #402

2019 SC Pannell Aglianico, McLaren Vale South Australia

Nebbiolo and Sangiovese are probably the two most oft Italian wine varieties mentioned in the Australian context. Others though are catching up. Aglianico is one and it is surprising to learn that, in Italy, it is considered the third greatest wine after the aforementioned Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. Its origins are a little mysterious; sometimes reported to have been brought across by Greeks, others suggest it is endemic to the volcanic soils of the Basilicata and Campania regions of southern Italy. Either way, its introduction to Australia is proving to be rewarding.

2019 SC Pannell Aglianico is grown on the ancient soils of the McLaren Vale region in South Australia. It is a deep bright red coloured wine that is highly appealing when swirled in the glass. The nose is intoxicatingly rustic with its mix of earth, leather, spices and dark fruits. Ironstone, cherries, almonds, baking spices waft above the glass having you think that this could be a cross between a cherry danish and an almond slice. On the palate, these aromas build as flavours moving through a backbone of bitter chocolate and minerals. The defining feature is the balance between the taut tannins and building acidity that play out the rusticity masterfully. All this suggests the vines are loving their new home.

Enjoy!

Rating: 94 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14%

Drink: Now; 5-10 yrs

Price: $40

Tasted: October 2021 and October 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #401

2021 Coriole Sangiovese, McLaren Vale, South Australia

Sangiovese is a grape that has its origins in Tuscany, Italy, but it was not until the 18th century in this region that it would gain widespread attention. Coriole is one of the first Australian vineyards to give this grape a go and has vines dating back to a mere 1985. It could be argued that Coriole has had but a pittance of time to understand the nuances and vagaries of the Sangiovese vines established in McLaren Vale across some 30 odd vintages. This experience and ongoing releases says they are pretty happy with how this grape is performing and all the better for us.

The 2021 Coriole Sangiovese from McLaren Vale in South Australia is a deep red with magenta hues. Its nose displays cherries, earthy, savoury and herbal notes. There is also a touch of brambly red fruits that really compliments. On the palate, there is a Cherry Ripe-like flavour with an earthiness that plays delightfully against a backdrop of the gravelly tannins. The palate lingers longing suggesting there are many more vintages for us to to enjoy in the years to come.

Enjoy!

Rating: 93 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.3%

Drink: Now; 3-7 yrs

Price: $29

Tasted: November 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #400

2019 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, South Australia

Great Southern Land, a masterpiece by Icehouse was released 40 years ago. It is a song that celebrates the vastness and wonder of this land and tells you a story if you listen hard enough. And so too does the classic Australian blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. An Australian creation, this is a blend that can be vineyard driven, regional or multi-regional. In the hands of our finest winemakers it tells you a glorious story if you listen hard enough.

The 2019 Penfolds Bin 389 is a multi-regional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz from South Australia. It is dark red and black as if hidden by the Summer for a million years. The aromas if you are listeninng to the motion of the wind in the mountains will whisper and roar plums, spices, liquorice, chocolate, savoury notes and charcuterie. The palate builds upon this and soaks you in memories with chocolate, coffee, dark red fruits, liquorice, spices, plums and black fruits. Each flavour is expertly woven into a bed of fine grainy tannins. It is long, it is lingering and it has a finish that leaves you in no doubt that if you can leave it long enough, it will walk alone with the ghosts of time.

Enjoy!

Rating: 96 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 10+ yrs

Price: $100

Tasted: June 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #399

2021 Mayer Gamay, Yarra Valley, Victoria

Pinot Noir gains in popularity and Shiraz maintains its place. What if you could put the two together? One is the dancer, it hails from Burgundy. The other a prancer with origins from Rhone. There is a place in between. It is a place where the prancer’s attitude softens and the dancer’s stride lengthens. This is the place they call Beaujoulais. The grape is called Gamay. And Gamay is growing in interest as it finds its place in Australia.

The 2021 Mayer Gamay is from the Yarra Valley in Victoria. It is a crimson-coloured wine with a darkness that delights. The nose is full of pomegranates, citrus, minerals and raspberries. It has a funky character that lightly dances through the aromas of pomegranate, savoury elements, raspberries, citrus and minerals. The palate is intoxicating with its expressive red fruits. Soft spices canter easily and beautifully around the sinewy tannins as the crunchy acidity delivers a marvellous length.

Enjoy!

Rating: 94 pts

Closure: Diam

Alc: 13%

Drink: Now; 3-5 yrs

Price: $55

Tasted: June 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #398

2021 Ghost Rock Pinot Gris, Tasmania

The forbidden fruit can be many things. Your own forbidden fruit appears to depend upon your cultural leanings, educational curiosity and life experiences. Figs, apples, pears, pomegranates and grapes all get a mention. As an aside, it is highly amusing to discover that apple in Latin means apple, but when the same word is borrowed from the Greek, could also mean evil. A theological joke on us perhaps! And so we come to our Apple Isle where grapes are grown and fermented for our pleasure. The Forbidden Island has many temptations and Pinot Gris is just one that could be labelled as a forbidden fruit.

The 2021 Ghost Rock Pinot Gris is produced from a vineyard in northern Tasmania. It is a mostly clear wine that is lightly hued by a yellow pink and grey. The nose floods the senses with figs, pears and an intoxicating blend of honeydew and rockmelons. Crushed minerals and almonds add an enticement to the palate. The texture is lightly oily, yet grippy, which parts the seas allowing the flavours to be expressed elegantly and in abundance. This is forbidden fruit in a bottle.

Enjoy!

Rating: 93 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 13.8%

Drink: Now; 3-7 yrs

Price: $30

Tasted: May 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #397

2019 Bird in Hand Montepulciano, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

We first meet Zorii Bliss on the frozen planet Kijimi. Of course, her fame as a spice runner is well known. Her passion for Italian varietals, not as much. During her years running spices around the galaxies, she had been known to drop into the Adelaide Hills from time to time to stock up between gigs. It also helped soften her rage towards Poe Dameron for rejecting her all those years before. Zorii kept meticulous notes of her spice running missions and as it turns out, her wine musings.

The 2019 Bird in Hand Montepulciano was secured from a secret rendezvous to Adelaide Hills in South Australia, planet Earth.  This wine is a dark crimson colour that opens up with dark fruits, earth and spices.  There are some cherries, herbs and briary notes, mysterious and whimsical, a little like the early years with Poe (sigh).  The palate brings these together with leather and lemon zest across a bed of spices and tannins that are almost Tatooine-like in their sandiness.  A sharp acidity with flavours persisting, reminding me that I am not alone.  This one is okay!

May the fourth be with you on this upcoming Star Wars Day.

Enjoy!

Rating: 93 pts

Closure: Vino-Lok (glass)

Alc: 14%

Drink: Now; 5 yrs

Price: $40

Tasted: January 2022

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Wine Code Breaker #396

2018 Mount Monument Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges, Victoria

The most famous mamelon is a breast-shaped hillock in Sevastopol. It was made so during the Crimean War of 1853-1856 (a war that is reported to have been started over an argument about a key) due to its strategic location.  A less famous mamelon was formed eons ago from an eruption of thick syrupy lava flowing through a vent in the bedrock of the Macedon Ranges.  This site provides the strategic canvas for a vineyard with its 630 metres of elevation, volcanic soils and aspect. 

The 2018 Mount Monument Pinot Noir from the Macedon Ranges in Victoria requires no key to open. Once poured it is quite a deep, crimson-coloured wine. It has a floral perfume to the nose with cherries, black olives and citrus peel dipped deftly in balsamic vinegar. The palate has those bold cherries on a backbone of sinewy silky tannins. Blueberries, black olives and savoury oak add complexity and provide a broad, fanning finish that would be a perfect accompaniment to celebrating the summit.

Enjoy!

Rating: 95 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14%

Drink: Now; 3-10 yrs

Price: $45

Tasted: December 2021

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