Wine Code Breaker #434

2021 Kalleske TKX2 Sparkling Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Sparkling red wines, in some circles, are considered an abomination, particularly for the uninitiated. You may be one of those, and I get it. Made using the Methode Traditionelle, you will be confronted by a blood-red wine with a frothing pink mousse, which can be quite confronting, to say the least. Once past this shock, you then get to marvel at the flavours and textures that marry oh so well together. In fact, you may even desire to make your own when you run out. However, getting a delicious red and putting it through a soda stream is called Methode Stupide and is not advisable. I know from personal experience (and having to repaint my kitchen a couple of times!).

The 2021 Kalleske TKX2 Sparkling Shiraz is from the Barossa Valley in South Australia. It is a deeply crimson-coloured wine with a super fine, vibrant pink mousse. Served chilled, the coolness of the wine coils the aromas, releasing them in waves; plums, cherries, lifted perfume, chocolate, liquorice, and savoury elements spring from the glass. The palate is where the magic happens. There is a convergence of creaminess, dustiness, and savouriness that oozes bold dark fruits, liquorice, and spices. Each wrapped in tiny effervescent bubbles that pop a million times over and oh so pleasingly across the palate with a dreamy persistence. This is so much more than what a soda stream can achieve. Magnificent!

Enjoy!

Rating: 95 pts

Closure: Crown

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 10+ yrs

Price: $60

Tasted: August 2024

Wine Code Breaker #433

2019 Boireann Shiraz Viognier, Granite Belt, Queensland

There are a series of vineyards nestled in amongst the vulgar granitic boulders out the back of Stanthorpe in Queensland. This is in the heart of the Granite Belt wine region. Perched at about 900 metres above sea level, this region is one of the highest in Australia. Even though it is so far north, it is classified as a cool climate district. The location is challenging; frosts, birds and feral pigs abound which in some seasons leaves a handful of grapes for wine making. Drought, bushfires and rain at harvest all contribute to the angst. When it is right, it is right and this is when we get to try some seriously good wine.

The 2019 Boireann Shiraz Viognier is from the Granite Belt region in Queensland. It is a fabulously bright red purple, retaining a flashing clear rim. The nose is highlighted by its aromatics of blooming apricots and violets. Cool climate expressions stand out including plum and cherries intermingled with black and white peppers. Baking spices, herbs and liquorice add a delightful sprinkle of complexity. The palate is medium weight with peppery spice and plum fruit. There is chocolate, more dark than milk, and layering of herbs and savoury oak. The tannins are wonderfully expressive with a super fine grained appearance delivering a stunning mouthfeel and a persistence that is as lasting as the granite beside the vineyards.

Enjoy!

Rating: 96 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 15%

Drink: Now; 10+ yrs

Price: $100

Tasted: April 2024

Wine Code Breaker #432

2022 Ironcloud The Alliance Chardonnay, Ferguson Valley, Geographe, Western Australia

The use of the word “iron” in front of another gives it a suggestion of strength. The use of this in more recent times leads you to thoughts of security, which may further prompt thoughts of “the Cloud.” “The Cloud,” of course, is a metaphorical reference (and brand name) to storing your data over the internet in a secure server than is in fact fixed and supported by quite significant infrastructure. A winery with the name Ironcloud therefore evokes thoughts of strength, security and perhaps, with the merging of cloud, a heavenly experience is about to unfold from the bottle.

The 2022 Ironcloud The Alliance Chardonnay is from the Ferguson Valley in the Geographe region of Western Australia. It is a light golden-colour in the glass that is immediately physical in form. A precise nose with floral notes and peaches is balanced perfectly against grapefruit pith and citrus zest. This is further strengthened by oatmeal, curd and savoury oak. The palate is far from virtual, tending towards heavenly with flavours immediately unfolding; oatmeal, cashews and savoury oak, all in unison with the purity of the lemon and stone fruits. A beautiful texture with creamy lees and crisp acidity extends the finish that is clearly its strength.

Enjoy!

Rating: 96 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 13.5%

Drink: Now; 3-7 yrs

Price: $50

Tasted: June 2024

Source: Punch Lane Wine Bar

Wine Code Breaker #431

2021 Yangarra Blewitt Springs Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale, South Australia

The Blewitt Springs is a highly regarded sub-region of McLaren Vale where the rainfall is a fraction higher and the temperatures a fraction cooler. This is of course in comparison to the wider McLaren Vale wine region. Combine this with soils that are sandy overlying a clay base and this little patch of a tick over 7300 ha under vines is reported as producing some of the most sought after grapes. For winemakers getting their hands on old bush vines of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, there is fragrance and elegance for us to enjoy in larger fractions that us mere mortals can detect.  

The 2021 Yangarra blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre from the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale in South Australia is a bright cerise coloured wine. A highly perfumed nose with enticing red fruits and soft soft spices. A fraction of earth, a fraction of citrus rind and a fraction of liquorice add to the enchantment. On the palate is where you feel the fractions come together with its red fruits, cherries and spices on a bed of soft grainy, almost sandy, tannins. As a whole sum, this is a wine that is lean, elegant and vibrant with a long and expressive persistence that goes beyond the sum of the parts. That is good for us mere mortals. 

Enjoy!

Rating: 95 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 3-7 yrs

Price: $40

Tasted: May 2024

Wine Code Breaker #430

2023 Ravensworth Gamay Noir, Tumbarumba, New South Wales

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the two grapes that are putting Tumbarumba on the wine map. Perhaps this is not surprising as the region experiences a large daily range in temperatures that is not dissimilar to Burgundy where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay hail from and have continued to thrive and marvel across 1,000 years. Gamay was kicked out of Burgundy by the King of Burgundy in the 14th century for being a “very bad and disloyal variety,” so perhaps we should not be surprised that Tumbarumba has become a home away from home.

2023 Ravensworth Gamay Noir from Tumbarumba in the Snowy Mountains of New South Wales presents as a light crimson, cherry-coloured wine. The nose is all cherry fruits with savoury notes and a little meatiness, where a slight stalky character adds complexity and interest. The cherry fruits come through and really shine with food. Savoury flavours mingle with gamey meat characters and bright pomegranate fruits. Soft, sinewy tannins support an extended textural finish, ample time to pay homage to one of Gamay’s new homes. 

Enjoy!

Rating: 92 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 13%

Drink: Now; 2-3 yrs

Price: $40

Tasted: May 2024

Wine Code Breaker #429

2022 Longhop Old Vine Grenache, Adelaide Plains, South Australia

Eliza Doolittle’s elocution lessons centred around enunciation through repetition. Most will recall the scene where Eliza transforms her speech under the tutelage of Professor Henry Higgins; “the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain.” One line that suffered the editor’s curse was: “the stash of cash is for Grenache with panache.” I have read the scene was highly amusing with several re-takes being required. For the life of me, I cannot understand why it was cut. Grenache certainly has panache, particularly those from the Adelaide Plains.

The 2022 Longhop Old Vine Grenache is from the Adelaide Plains in South Australia. It is a bright, luminous, crimson-coloured wine with a nose of rose petals, red berries and kirsch.  The palate is marked by berries and cloves with its soft, lightly sinewy tannins. Give it a slight chill and you will be repeating the phrase: “the stash of cash is for Grenache with panache.” Do you agree?

Enjoy!

Rating: 91 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 3-5 yrs

Price: $25

Tasted: May 2024

Wine Code Breaker #428

2021 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria

Perpetual motion is the concept of a machine that can continue to operate indefinitely without any external energy source. Of course, this is theoretical as its greatest enemy is friction. Friction, however, is the friend of wine. We experience this through mouthfeel and the textural sensation of the wine as it’s transported across our palate. The hang time or persistence of flavours without  friction would be a mere sugar hit to the senses, rather than something to marvel at.

The 2021 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay is from a single vineyard in the Grueye sub-region of the Yarra Valley. It presents as a light golden-coloured wine in the glass. The nose is glorious; grapefruit curd (if there is ever such a thing), citrus zest, white flowers, oatmeal and a savoury oakiness thread through the aromas. On the palate, the texture is a highlight with its creaminess balanced against crisp acidity. If ever there was a wine that gets close to perpetual motion, this is it, as the texture provides the backdrop for waves of flavours that ripple gently, just shy of in perpetuity! 

Enjoy!

Rating: 98 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 13%

Drink: Now; 3-10 yrs

Price: $80

Tasted: March 2024

Wine Code Breaker #427

2023 Turkey Flat Rosé, Barossa Valley, South Australia

If wine was invented today, what would it be released in? Glass bottles as per today? Probably not. Tetra packs? They offer some advantages. What about aluminium cans? Aluminium is infinitely recyclable and offers a seal of high integrity. It is light, making transport and lifting more efficient. I am sure a range of vessel sizes could be worked out and the surface provides ample room for labelling. Would you buy wine in a can?

The 2023 Turkey Flat Rosé is a Grenache from the Barossa Valley in South Australia. It is a delightful salmon pink in colour and is the perfect backdrop for a lunchtime or late afternoon snack. The nose is fresh: rose petals and red berry fruits with a hint of spice. The palate ripples with Turkish Delight, raspberries and red currants that all float effortlessly on clouds of subtle tannins. The crisp acidity drives a finish that is oh so refreshing and delightful. What a treat out of a can.

Enjoy!

Rating: 95 pts

Closure: Can

Alc: 12%

Drink: Now; 1-3 yrs

Price: $34 (4 x 250mL pack)

Tasted: April 2024

Wine Code Breaker #426

2022 John Duval Cellars Annexus Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia

Maz Kanata has lived more than 1,000 years. Better known, of course, as the Pirate Queen, Maz is the owner of a castle on the forest planet of Takodana. Until more recent times, she was also the keeper of the lightsaber of Luke Skywalker. The Pirate Queen is no Jedi, but knows of the Force. What is not so well known, is that her Cantina showcases a wine of the week. A recent tasting from Maz was captured for Rey Skywalker following the delivery of some pallets smuggled in from a galaxy far far away.

“Dear child, the 2022 John Duval Cellars Annexus is a Grenache from the famed ancient Stonegarden vineyard in the Barossa Valley of South Australia, planet Earth. The colour is as bright a crimson as the synthetic crystals of the Dark Jedi lightsaber. Through the ages, I have seen evil take many forms and this has no evil, with aromas of perfumed rose petals, cherries, raspberries, violets, musk and crushed gravel. I can see into a wine’s heart by using the Force. This one is strong. Its flavours move through you, the structure surrounds you. Bright red fruits, bits of earth and liquorice on a cushion of fine emery board tannins linger. Close your eyes. Feel it. The flavours have always been there; they will guide you.”

May the Force be with you this Star Wars Day. May the Fourth it is.

Enjoy!

Rating: 96 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 3-10 yrs

Price: $78

Tasted: April 2024

Wine Code Breaker #425

2021 S.C. Pannell Grenache Shiraz Touriga, McLaren, South Australia

Another Federal budget looms over the heads of the tax paying public. The PAYG again will be hit hardest. We will bemoan what will be, but will ultimately move on to create more wealth to be taxed like a masochist. One element that won’t be touch is the beloved Goods and Services Tax or GST and for this we may or may not be thankful. This little 10 percenter is well and truly a fixture of our lives. Another GST that should be a fixative is from S.C. Pannell wines. 

The 2021 S.C. Pannell GST is a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Touriga from grapes grown in the McLaren Vale district of South Australia. It is a dark crimson colour with an very attractive brightness. The nose has bright cherry, blueberry and plum fruits; quite herbal and spicy with nutmeg, musk and liquorice. The palate displays an array of fruits that includes cherries and blueberries alike with some raspberries that are almost sarsaparilla like. A medium bodied palate with gravelly, grainy tannins enhancing the textural experience and with the acid, drives the persistence. A highly gluggable 10 percenter representing a GST that we should all rejoice.

Enjoy!

Rating: 93 pts

Closure: Screwtop

Alc: 14.5%

Drink: Now; 3-5 yrs

Price: $35

Tasted: April 2024